The setting was the 10km stretch of coast that was home to some of the best breaks in the world, which exploded every northern winter as intense storms in the north Pacific sent mountainous swells towards the island's rocky shore.Until the year before, the Hawaiians had dominated the annual season of amateur competitions at their beaches which were, and remain, the pinnacle of the world's surf meets.
In 1975, however, haoles (white people) from Australia and South Africa had been granted precious invitations to the meets after proving their skill and courage out of competition the year before. They wound up winning each of the four events. The Hawaiians' pride was wounded but they hid it well. They had been generous hosts to the haoles and assumed that the newcomers, regardless of their success, had an understanding of the code of humility and respect central to Hawaiian culture.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Bustin' Down the Door
This looks like a good story:
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1 comment:
Lookin' good! Great trailer and a great post.
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